🔴 Tool Maintenance Tips. WWMM Live!

🔴 Tool Maintenance Tips. WWMM Live!

I asked for your tool maintenance tips on Patreon and Twitter. Here are some of your answers and here are a couple things I recommend ➤
My sharpening stone thing. I LOVE THIS TOOL! Work Sharp WSGFS221 Guided Field Sharpener ➤ http://amzn.to/2urUIRo
My tool table top conditioner. Bostik 10220 Top-Cote ➤ http://amzn.to/2susuEq

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Category
Howto & Style

50 Comments

  1. to eliminate snipe on your planner try using scrap pieces in front and behind your work piece. this will help as the rollers are still rolling

  2. Two of my favorite tips: The first from Paul Sellers is "oily rag in a can" Check his videos for how to make one. The absolute best way to protect cast iron tables, machined decks and ways. The second from long ago is: Pine-sol, available at the market and in big box stores in the cleaning supplies aisle. Use it straight out of the bottle to remove saw blade build-up and gum, same with router bits. Works better than any special blade cleaning product. I use an old round pizza pan, it has about a 1/2" raised lip. 10 or 12 inch blades will lay flat in the pan. I pour the Pine-Sol over the blade and let it soak for a few hours or over night. An old toothbrush and running water and I have "new blades".

  3. I’d love for you to do a mock video on a livestream – basically just shoot a bit of a video with the live stream running. Showing where you place the cameras, the different angles you use, what you show & don’t show in videos etc.. i think it would be really interesting and informative 🙂

  4. For people looking for that bostik topcoat. They changed their look from the brown can to a black and blue one and says "glidecote."

  5. On a large property where I used to work years ago I went and put yellow tape on all of my tool handles, so I could identify them when they were "borrowed". Within a few days one of my co-workers showed me he had just had the idea to put yellow tape on all of his tools so he could tell them apart from others!!!

  6. Using a strop works. It really does. I do the same. I strop at the end of sharpening, and anytime a tool, starting to lose there edge.

  7. wd 40 is great! = but can damage some plastics with heavy use.
    it is combustible . i still use it. its great on almost anything
    wd40= water displacement 40 ?

  8. Instead of chalk for humidity try synthetic kitty litter, the stuff that is generally white granules with a few blue ones that turn pink when kitty has finished with it. When its absorbed moisture from the atmosphere it will turn pink as well, then in to the oven for a short period to dry it out and re-use.

    Mind you use it for my camera gear, tools seem to get forgotten

  9. Any suggestions for lube/rust prevention for the slides on a miter saw? I just purchased my first "big boy" saw, and I would like to keep it nice.

  10. On the topic of lending tools – Here in Germany the sunday is kind of sacred. You are hold to not making noise. At least not the kind of noise tools like a lawnmower or a chainsaw make. If you live in a small village in a rural area things are different. Some sunday a neighbor showed up and asked me for my chainsaws. The whole sunday, you could see him make firewood. On monday I got my saws back, freshly cleaned, with new oil and a tank full of gasoline in them. The chains were also freshly sharpend.

  11. Just an idea, being someone in photography, try adjusting the camera at your shoulders level. That would show you not short nor tall but you natural height, and will prevent neck pain
    God bless you
    Sam

  12. if you have a car wax, you can use it too instead of making a special trip to get paste wax. I use it on the slides of my miter saw, table saw top, band saw top and my jointer tables. it won’t last as long as paste wax. I use mother’s carnuba wax. smells great, too.

  13. Again any oil or the like will attract dust and dirt. Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax – Wax…..

  14. Hi. Im new to ur videos. Just started building stuff and have learnt so much. I have found being in australia i have to try and adjust measures. Thanks heaps

  15. Thanks Steve and Wyatt. I have a small plexi cutter that’s about the size of a pencil that I use. It was only a few dollars. You can put a yardstick or other guide onto plexi for a straight cut or do a curved cut without it. You just make several passes over the same line and then snap it off like glass. There’s very little debris and I just use fine grit sandpaper for the edges. I made a couple strips to clamp sheet music down on windy days and it’s great because you can see through it.WD40 will eventually dissolve fishing line so watch getting it on certain plastics. If you’re doing anything that comes into contact with food using food grade mineral oil or glycerin might be better options. Glycerin is good for conditioning rubber if you ever need to.

  16. Steve, the camera is to high in this video. The chalk works as I’ve been using this for many years. WD40 is not a lube. It will cause the hinge or bearing to attract dust and dirt. It is good to stop squeaks for a time but they will come back along with a dirty hinge.I keep all of my tool bases like the table saw coated with a paste wax. This not only decreases the chances of rust, but keeps things sliding nice. Loan your tools to a neighbor????? Only if he knows how to use it. Had a law suit here reciently and the loaner paid a lot for the stupidity of the neighbor. So be careful!!!!! I eliminated 99% of the snipe in my thickness planer by building a table that fits into the throat of the planer and extends 4 feet in front and behind the cutter. This only nakes you loose 3/4 inch of thickness but lets you have the potential of placing guides on the board to use in planing narrow pieces on their sides. Like a 1 X 4 that you want to have the right width and you have 20 of them. If you "nick" the blades usually you will "nick" all of the blades (usually 2 or 3 blades). If you have good sharp "nicked" blades there is room in the mounting space to (usually) move the blades side to side (usually not more than 1/8 inch) but this is enough to offset the blades and make the "nick" go away. I have done this several times when I was not as smart as I should have been. Sand the tables, then clean thee tables , and finally wax them. This keeps moisture away and makes the wood to glide better…I never use WD40 for anything but cleaning. Do you know where the WD and the 40 came from??? The WD was for "water defense and the 40 was from the 40th chemecal formula as they had failed in the first 39 tries.

  17. Here in Minnesota we have issues with rust on EVERYTHING. Especially cars with all the salt the state uses on roads. I use giant silica packets, dehumidifier, and oil on all my tools. Seems to work well. My problem is buying used tools. Usually bolts and screws are seized from rust. A little penetrating fluid and time, they come right out. Sometimes I strip them and have to cut a slit or use speedouts. Pain in the butt. So it’s better to protect them from the start. If I get one that’s rusty I take it apart and clean it all, also replace the really rusty parts. Even if it’s not needed. Preventative maintenance!!

  18. *Lanolin (wool grease) based product would be ideal, too. We have a product in Australia called ‘inox’ which is stickier than WD40.*

  19. Steve, I treated my table saw with non water based automotive wax (Johnson?). When I lived in Florida I had rust issues on a regular basis. So I got 800 grit sand paper that fit on my orbit sander. I sanded, cleaned with mineral spirits, then applied the wax. Applying about 4x a year I have never had a rust issue again.

  20. Use paste wax on the metal surfaces of you planer, table saw, band saw and anything where wood slides over metal . Prevents rust and makes wood slide easier..

  21. Live stream idea, a live project, small one of course. It would be fun to see the pencil disappearing, screwing a side of a box in the inside of it when it goes outside, etc. I know I would….

  22. Always put a pencil in your shirt pocket and a tape measure on your belt. Umm, I live in t-shirts and yoga pants – no shirt pockets or belts.

  23. In a woodshop, lubes are tricky…dry teflon lubes are awesome but they interfere with finishes. WD40 is not a lubricant! It works for very short term, but when you spray it in a bearing, etc. it is just reconstituting the old caked grease…..so you think it’s actually lubricating. The real intended use is to displace water. LPS is probably what you want for actual rust protection, while still lubing the actual moving parts. LPS2 is good for table saw tops, etc. but you have to let it dry to keep it from collecting dust.

  24. I have packs of silica in every drawer.
    I wish I found you years ago. I’ve been watching your videos for only two weeks and learned more that 3 years I’ve been woodworking. Ty so much for the time that you and your team have put into all that you share.

  25. One thing my dad taught me, zip tie drill chucks or saw wrenchs(to change blades) to the end of the power cord. You always know where it is, and the power is always disconnected when you use it!

  26. Magnets! Always an attratvie solution. I do what you suggested and use them for all kinds of other uses. Good for holing the scres and etc while you take something apart, or as third hands, thin disk magnets are great if you have a battery that doesn’t quite connect. I have lots of magnets, 1000s of them, cheap on ebay. I have a few that scare the hell out of me, you have to be real real careful with ones that get up into the 200-500 lbs pull. You don’t want to catch various parts of your body between it and a chunk of metal.

  27. on the top of my table saw, band saw and even in the working parts, I found "dry lube" to do the job better than anything else.

  28. Hi Steve, just a quick safety tip when cleaning a bandsaw table, I have a short length of hosepipe that I cut a slit down one side with a craft knife. This fits on to the blade easily preventing contact with the hands while cleaning the table.

  29. What I would like from experienced people like you is…

    Specific directions on what to buy. Sometimes people want to say you can use this. but others have found that works well….

    You’ve done it long enough to have opinions and recommendations, so…

    This is the chisel set I got; this is the router I use; this is the glue product; this is my table saw; get that bit set; etc.

    You’ve already figured it out. We who are new to it can hit the ground running.

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